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SEE ALSO Angkor Guide | Laos | Hanoi Guide | Vietnam Beach Resorts | Bangkok Hotels Bougainvillea blossoms add a huge splash of colour to the Royal Palace grounds/ photo: Vijay Verghese JUMP TO Getting around Phnom Penh | Temples, pagodas and museum | Shopping and fun | Nightlife in Phnom Penh | Business hotels | Boutique hotels | Hotel Contacts AT FIRST glance, Phnom Penh doesn’t seem much at all. The odd elephant lumbers down the quay along with zinging two-wheelers and the occasional muscle SUV with mysteriously tinted windows and official number plates, always escorted by a motorcycle outrider, siren wailing. As I snapped one shaven supplicant, a beefy Westerner of uncertain provenance burst from the bar, blinking in the harsh light, a mug of beer clutched in one hand, though it was barely 10am. “Sure, and then I’ll punch you right in the middle of your effing face.” “Right.” It was time to move on, back in time. Phnom Penh International Airport is a grand name for a small dolls’ house facility that has just a handful of gates with air bridges. Visas on arrival (US) are studiously dealt with by courteous staff and, minus this small distraction, you can be through from aeroplane gate to taxi in five minutes if not waiting for baggage.

It barely registers as the plane swoops down through the morning haze, over flat farmland, the lazy-python meanders of the chocolate Mekong heavily gorged on silt, and a few ribbons of dusty road. As the sirens fade it’s back to the ghetto blasters and an oddly engaging riverfront ritual, dusk and dawn, where ragtag groups perform a desultory, synchronised dance, almost zombie like, some wandering away with shy smiles halfway through the routine. “Yeah, you can take a picture of me,” he said, or rather, demanded. Departing international travellers pay a US passenger service charge while the domestic flight levy is US.

This unremarkable bucolic scene is not what you’d expect of an Asian capital. Those intent on duty-free shopping in Phnom Penh can peel their eyebrows from the ceiling perusing Tokyo prices – US or more for a one-litre bottle of duty-free Johnnie Walker Black Label.

Sans-highrises (though this is changing), dusty, laid back Phnom Penh, with its endearingly tiny shoebox airport, is steeped in history, some of it brutal, much of it remarkable. Orange-robed monks awaiting alms did their rounds, stopping prayerfully outside the better off establishments thronged with red-faced Europeans.

A BVLGARI Rose Essentielle 50ml Step outside to flag a metered taxi or hone your negotiating skills to bag a ride into town – just six kilometres and 20 minutes away – for around US, or less if you have a convincing kerbside manner.

There are also cheaper tuk tuk motorcycle cabs seating from four persons to an entire planeload plus a packet of chips depending on the disposition of the driver and passengers.

Entry tickets for foreigners are Crl25,000 while Cambodians pay just Crl1,000, demonstrating the government is no slouch when it comes to harvesting tourist dollars.

Still, at US for entry, you can hardly complain of being bilked.

Conveniently for visitors, streets form a grid, not quite Manhattan-style, but easily understandable. The streets running from north to south are odd numbered while the intermeshing east-west streets leading to the riverfront are even numbered, the value ascending as you move south down the quay from the Wat Phnom area to the Royal Palace.Over half the palace grounds are devoted to the royal residence, which is still in use and off limits to the public.Occupying the south of the complex is the Silver Pagoda or Wat Preah Keo housing its prized bejewelled and gold Buddha statues.With a population of just around 1.3 million, Phnom Penh makes a stab at something approaching soporific swagger Friday evenings but, for the most part, it has an unhurried, unworried pace, the traffic approaching intersections from all four sides at once and, miraculously, threading through without frequent mishap.The occasional fender-bender will invite a frown or a peevish shake of the head, but rarely police.

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It is also home to one of the world's largest passenger terminal buildings (the largest when opened in 1998).

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